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The Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via the waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Oceans. Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary definition The Northwest Passage Thawed The various islands of the archipelago are separated from one another and the Canada mainland by a series of Arctic waterways collectively known as the Northwest Passages or Northwestern Passages. IHO Codes for Oceans & Seas, and Other Code Systems, including IHO 23-3rd: Limits of Oceans and Seas, Special Publication 23, 3rd ed. (1953), published by International Hydrographic Organization.

Sought by explorers for centuries as a possible trade route, it was first navigated by Roald Amundsen in 1903-6. The Arctic polar ice packs prevents regular ship transport throughout the year, but due to climate change, the pack ice is being reduced and may eventually make the waterways more navigable. This and the contested sovereignty claims over the waters may complicate future shipping through the region. The Government of Canada considers the Northwestern Passages part of Canadian Internal Waters, TP 14202 E Interpretation - Transport Canada ] but various countries maintain they are an United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea or transit passage, allowing free and unencumbered passage. The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty Naval Operations in an ice-free Arctic

Overview Between the end of the 15th century and the 20th century, Colonialism from Eurasia dispatched explorers in an attempt to discover a commercial sea route north and west around North America. The Northwest Passage represented a new route to the established trading nations of Asia. In 1493 to defuse trade disputes Pope Alexander VI split the discovered world in two between Spain and Portugal; thus France, Holland and England were left without a sea route to Asia, either via Africa or South America.Captain Cook by Vanessa Collingridge (Ebury Press) 2002 ISBN 0091888980The United Kingdom called the hypothetical route the Northwest Passage. The desire to establish such a route motivated much of the European exploration of both coasts of North America. When it became apparent that there was no route through the heart of the continent, attention turned to the possibility of a passage through northern waters. This was driven in some part by scientific naiveté, namely an early belief that seawater was incapable of freezing (as late as the mid 18th century, James Cook had reported, for example, that Antarctic icebergs had yielded fresh water, seemingly confirming the hypothesis), and that a route close to the North Pole must therefore exist. The belief that a route lay to the far north persisted for several centuries and led to a number of expeditions into the Arctic, including the attempt by Sir John Franklin in 1845. In 1906, Roald Amundsen first successfully completed a path from Greenland to Alaska in the Gjøa. Since that date, a number of ice-fortified ships have made the journey.

From west to east the Northwest Passage runs through the Bering Strait (separating Russia and Alaska), Chukchi Sea, Beaufort Sea and then through several waterways that go through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. There are five to seven different routes through the archipelago, including the McClure Strait, Dease Strait and the Prince of Wales Strait, but not all of them are suitable for larger ships. The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty The passage then goes through Baffin Bay and the Davis Strait into the Atlantic Ocean.

There has been speculation that with the advent of global warming the passage may become clear enough of ice to permit safe commercial Ship transport for at least part of the year. On August 21, 2007 the Northwest Passage became open to ships without the need of an icebreaker. According to Nalan Koc of the Norwegian Polar Institute this is the first time it has been clear since they began keeping records in 1972. North-West Passage is now plain sailing Satellites witness lowest Arctic ice coverage in history

From 1500 to 1850 Strait of Anián In 1539, Hernán Cortés commissioned Francisco de Ulloa to sail along the peninsula of Baja California peninsula on the Western coast of America. Ulloa concluded that the Gulf of California was the southernmost section of a strait supposedly linking the Pacific with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. His voyage perpetuated the notion of the Island of California and saw the beginning of a search for the Strait of Anián.

The strait probably took its name from Ania, a Chinese province mentioned in a 1559 edition of Marco Polo's book; it first appears on a map issued by Italy cartographer Giacomo Gastaldi about 1562. Five years later Bolognini Zaltieri issued a map showing a narrow and crooked Strait of Anian separating Asia from Americas. The strait grew in European imagination as an easy sea-lane linking Europe with the residence of the Great Khan in Cathay (northern China). It was originally placed at approximately the latitude of San Diego, California leading some who live in the region to call it "Anian" or "Aniane".

Voyages by John Cabot, Corte-Real, Jacques Cartier and Sir Humphrey Gilbert were motivated by its supposed existence, and cartographers and seamen tried to demonstrate its reality. Sir Francis Drake sought the western entrance in 1579. The Greek pilot Juan de Fuca claimed he had sailed the strait from the Pacific to the North Sea and back in 1592. The Spaniard Bartholomew de Fonte (who, some scholars have stated, was fictitious) claimed to have sailed from Hudson Bay to the Pacific via the strait in 1640.

Northern Atlantic The first recorded attempt to discover the Northwest passage was the east-west voyage of John Cabot in 1497, sent by Henry VII of England in search of a direct route to the Orient. The next of several British expeditions were launched in 1576 by Martin Frobisher, who took three trips west to what is now the Canadian Arctic in order to find the passage. Frobisher Bay, which he discovered, is named after him. As part of another hunt, in July 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who had written a treatise on the discovery of the passage and was a backer of Frobisher, claimed the territory of Newfoundland (island) for the English crown. On August 8, 1585 the English people explorer John Davis (English explorer) for the first time entered Cumberland Sound, Baffin Island.

The major rivers on the east coast were also explored in case they could lead to a transcontinental passage. Jacques Cartier's explorations of the Saint Lawrence River were initiated in hope of finding a way through the continent. Indeed, Cartier managed to convince himself that the St. Lawrence was the Passage; when he found the way blocked by rapids at what is now Montreal, he was so certain that these rapids were all that was keeping him from China (in French, la Chine), that he named the rapids for China. To this day, they are the Lachine Rapids. In 1609 Henry Hudson sailed up what is now called the Hudson River in search of the Passage; encouraged by the saltiness of the water, he reached present-day Albany before giving up. He later explored the Arctic and Hudson Bay.

Northern Pacific Although most Northwest Passage expeditions originated in Europe or on the east coast of North America and sought to traverse the Passage in the westbound direction, some progress was made in exploration of its western end as well. In 1728 Vitus Bering, a Danish Navy officer in Russian service, used the strait first discovered by Semyon Dezhnyov in 1648 but later accredited to and named after Bering (the Bering Strait), concluding North America and Russia were separate land masses. Later in 1741 with Lieutenant Alexei Chirikov he went in search of further lands beyond Siberia. Whilst separated, Chirikov discovered several of the Aleutian Islands while Bering charted the Alaskan region before the scurvy-ravaged ship wrecked off Kamchatka.

In 1762, the English trading ship Octavius (ship) reportedly hazarded the passage from the west, but became trapped in sea ice. In 1775, the whaler Herald found the Octavius adrift near Greenland with the bodies of her crew frozen below decks. Thus the Octavius may have earned the distinction of being the first Western sailing ship to make the passage, although the fact that it took 13 years and occurred after the crew was dead somewhat tarnishes this achievement. (The veracity of the Octavius story is questionable).

Cook and Vancouver In 1776 Captain James Cook was despatched by the Admiralty in England under orders driven by a 1745 Act which, when extended in 1775, promised a £20,000 prize for whoever discovered the passage. Initially the Admiralty had wanted Charles Clerke to lead the expedition, with Cook, in retirement following his exploits in the Pacific, acting as a consultant. However Cook had researched Bering's expeditions and the Admiralty ultimately placed their faith in the veteran explorer to lead with Clerke accompanying him.

After journeying through the Pacific, in another West-East attempt Cook began at Nootka Sound in April 1777 and headed North along the coastline, charting the lands and searching for the regions sailed by the Russians 40 years previously. The Admiralty's orders had commanded the expedition to ignore all inlets and rivers until they reached a latitude of 65° North. Cook, however, failed to make any progress in sighting a Northwestern Passage.

Various officers on the expedition including William Bligh, George Vancouver and John Gore thought the existence of a route was 'improbable'. Before reaching 65° N they found the coastline pushing them further south, but Gore convinced Cook to sail on into the Cook Inlet in the hope of finding the route. They continued to the limits of the Alaskan peninsula and the start of the thousand-mile chain of Aleutian Islands. Despite reaching 70° N they encountered nothing but icebergs. Ultimately they failed in the search, cursing the Russians for their "late pretended Discoveries" and the existence of the passage as nothing more than geographical fantasy.

In 1791-1795, the Vancouver Expedition (led by George Vancouver who had accompanied Cook previously) surveyed in detail all the passages from the British Columbia Coast and confirmed that there was no such passage south of the Bering Strait.{{cite web|url=http://www.mysticseaport.org/library/initiative/ImPage.cfm?PageNum=2&BibId=17506&ChapterId=3|title=Vancouver's discovery of Puget Sound|author=Meany, Edmond Stephen|accessdate=April 13|accessyear=2007|publisher=Mystic Seaport--> This conclusion was supported by the evidence of Alexander Mackenzie who explored the Arctic and Pacific oceans in 1793.

19th century In the first half of the 19th century, some parts of the actual Northwest Passage (north of the Bering Strait) were explored separately by a number of expeditions, including those by John Ross (Arctic explorer), William Edward Parry, and James Clark Ross; overland expeditions were also led by John Franklin, George Back, Peter Warren Dease, Thomas Simpson (explorer), and John Rae (explorer). In 1825 Frederick William Beechey explored the north coast of Alaska, discovering Point Barrow.

Sir Robert McClure was credited with the discovery of the real Northwest Passage in 1851 when he looked across McClure Strait from Banks Island and viewed Melville Island, Canada. However, this strait was not navigable to ships at that time, and the only usable route linking the entrances of Lancaster Strait and Dolphin and Union Strait was discovered by John Rae in 1854.

Franklin expedition In 1845, a well-equipped two-ship expedition led by Sir John Franklin sailed to the Canadian Arctic to chart the final unknown parts of the Northwest Passage. Confidence was high, as there was less than of unexplored Arctic mainland coast left. When the ships failed to return, a number of relief expeditions and search parties explored the Canadian Arctic, resulting in final charting of a possible passage. Traces of the expedition have been found, including notes that indicate that the ships became ice-locked in 1846 near King William Island, about half way through the passage, and were unable to extricate themselves. Franklin himself died in 1847 and the last of the party in 1848, after abandoning the ships and attempting to escape overland by sledge. While starvation and scurvy contributed to the deaths of the crew, another factor was significant. The expedition took 8,000 tins of food which were carelessly sealed with a lead-based solder. The lead appears to have contaminated the food, poisoning the crew. They would have become weak and disoriented — later stages of lead poisoning include insanity and death. In 1981 Dr. Owen Beattie, an anthropologist from the University of Alberta, examined remains from sites associated with the expedition. This led to further investigations, and the examination of tissue and bone from the Mummy bodies of three seamen, exhumed from the permafrost of Beechey Island. Laboratory tests revealed high concentrations of lead in all three. New evidence shows that cannibalism may also have been a last resort for some of the crew.

McClure expedition representing British frustration at the failure to conquer the passage.During the search for Franklin, Commander Robert McClure and his crew in HMS Investigator traversed the Northwest Passage from west to east in the years 1850 to 1854, partly by ship and partly by sledge. McClure started out from England in December of 1849, sailed the Atlantic Ocean south to Cape Horn and entered the Pacific Ocean. He sailed the Pacific north with a stop at Hawaii and then finally passed through the Bering Strait, turning east at that point and reaching Banks Island. McClure's ship was trapped in the ice for three winters near Banks Island, at the western end of Viscount Melville Sound. Finally McClure and his crew – who were by that time dying of starvation — were found by searchers who had travelled by sledge over the ice from a ship of Sir Edward Belcher's expedition, and returned with them to Belcher's ships, which had entered the sound from the east. On one of Belcher's ships, McClure and his crew returned to England in 1854, becoming the first people to circumnavigate the Americas, and to discover and transit the Northwest Passage, albeit by ship and by sledge over the ice. This was an astonishing feat for that day and age and McClure was knighted and promoted to Captain and both he and his crew shared £10,000 awarded them by the Parliament of the United Kingdom.

Explorations by John Rae The expeditions by Franklin and McClure were in the then-current tradition of British exploration: well-funded ship-borne expeditions using modern technology, and usually including Royal Navy personnel. By contrast, John Rae was an employee of the Hudson's Bay Company, which was the major driving force behind exploration of the Canadian North. They adopted a pragmatic approach and tended to be land-based. While Franklin and McClure attempted to explore the passage by sea, Rae explored by land, using dog sleds and employing techniques he learned from the native Inuit. The Franklin and McClure expeditions each employed hundreds of personnel and multiple ships, and ended in failure. John Rae's expeditions included less than ten people and succeeded. Rae was also the only explorer to traverse these lands without ever losing a man. In 1854, John Rae - Dictionary of Canadian Biography Online Rae returned with information about the outcome of the ill-fated Franklin expedition.

Amundsen expedition The Northwest Passage was not conquered by sea until 1906, when the Norway explorer Roald Amundsen, who had sailed just in time to escape creditors seeking to stop the expedition, completed a three-year voyage in the converted 47-ton herring Fishing Vessel Gjøa. At the end of this trip, he walked into the city of Eagle, Alaska, and sent a telegram announcing his success. Although his chosen east-west route, via the Rae Strait, contained young ice and thus was navigable (see John Rae (explorer)), some of the waterways were extremely shallow making the route commercially impractical.

Later expeditions The first traversal of the Northwest Passage via dog sled Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen, biography by Sam Alley. Minnesota State University. was accomplished by Greenlander Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen while on the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921-1924). Rasmussen, and two Kalaallit, traveled from the Atlantic to the Pacific over the course of 16 months via dog sled.

In 1940, Canadian RCMP officer Henry Larsen was the second to sail the passage, crossing west to east, from Vancouver, Canada to City of Halifax. More than once on this trip, it was touch and go as to whether the St. Roch a Royal Canadian Mounted Police "ice-fortified" schooner would survive the ravages of the sea ice. At one point, Larsen wondered "if we had come this far only to be crushed like a nut on a shoal and then buried by the ice." The ship and all but one of her crew survived the winter on Boothia Peninsula. Each of the men on the trip was awarded a medal by Canada's sovereign, George VI of the United Kingdom, in recognition of this notable feat of Arctic navigation.

Later in 1944, Larsen's return trip was far more swift than his first; the 28 months he took on his first trip was significantly reduced, setting the mark for having traversed it in a single season. The efficiency was due to the ship following a more northerly partially uncharted route, together with extensive ship upgrades.

On July 1, 1957, the United States Coast Guard Cutter (ship) USCGC Storis (WMEC-38) departed in company with U.S. Coast Guard cutters Bramble (WLB-392) and SPAR (WLB-403) to search for a deep draft channel through the Arctic Ocean and to collect Hydrography information. Upon her return to Greenland waters, the Storis became the first United States registered vessel to circumnavigate the North American continent. Shortly after her return in late 1957, she was reassigned to her new home port of Kodiak, Alaska.

In 1969, the Manhattan (ship) made the passage, accompanied by the Canadian icebreaker CCGS John A. MacDonald. The Manhattan was a Ice class supertanker sent to test the viability of the passage for the transport of oil. While the Manhattan succeeded, the route was deemed not cost effective and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System was built instead.

In June 1977 sailor Willy de Roos left Belgium to attempt crossing the Northwest Passage in his steel yacht Williwaw. He reached the Bering Strait in September and after a stopover in Victoria, British Columbia went on to round Cape Horn and sail back to Belgium, thus being the first sailor to circumnavigate the Americas entirely by ship. Willy de Roos' big journey at the CBC archives

David Scott Cowper set out in July 1986 from England in a 12.8m (42') lifeboat, the Mabel El Holland, and survived 3 Arctic winters in the Northwest Passage before reaching the Bering Straits in August 1989. He then continued around the world via the Cape of Good Hope to arrive back on 24 September 1990, becoming the first vessel to circumnavigate via the Northwest PassageCruising, London, Summer 1992, p35.

In 2001 September 1, Northabout, an aluminium sailboat with diesel engine Northabout, built and captained by Jarlath Cunnane, a retired construction manager, completed the Northwest passage east-to-westfrom Ireland to the Bering Strait. The voyage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was completed in a very fast time of 24 days — from sailing into Lancaster Sound off Baffin Bay on 2001 August 7 to reaching the Bering Strait, Alaska on September 1. The Northabout then cruised in Canada for two years before it returned to Ireland in 2005 via the Northeast Passage thereby completing the first east-to-west circumnavigation of the pole by a single sailboat. The Northeast Passage return along the coast of Russia was slower, starting in 2004, with an ice stop/winter over in Khatanga (village), Siberia — hence the return to Ireland via the Norway coast in October 2005. On January 18, 2006, The Cruising Club of America awarded Jarlath Cunnane their Blue Water Medal, an award for "meritorious seamanship and adventure upon the sea displayed by amateur sailors of all nationalities."

On May 19 2007, French sailor Sébastien Roubinet and one other crew member left Anchorage, Alaska in Babouche, a ice catamaran designed to sail on water and slide over ice. The goal was to navigate west to east through the Northwest Passage by sail only. Following a journey of more than , Roubinet reached Greenland on September 9 2007, thereby completing the first Northwest Passage voyage made without engine in one season.

International waters dispute The Canadian government claims that some of the waters of the Northwest Passage, particularly those in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, are internal to Canada, giving Canada the right to bar transit through these waters. Most maritime nations,Nathan VanderKlippe. Northwest Passage gets political name change, CanWest News Services, Ottawa Citizen, April 9, 2006. including the United States and the nations of the European Union, Climate Change and Canadian Sovereignty in the Northwest Passage consider them to be an United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, where foreign vessels have the right of "transit passage". The Northwest Passage Thawed In such a régime, Canada would have the right to enact fishing and environmental regulation, and fiscal and smuggling laws, as well as laws intended for the safety of shipping, but not the right to close the passage. UNCLOS part III, STRAITS USED FOR INTERNATIONAL NAVIGATION The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty In 1985, the U.S. icebreaker USCGC Polar Sea (WAGB-11) passed through, and the U.S. government made a point of not asking permission from Canada. They claimed that this was simply a cost-effective way to get the ship from Greenland to Alaska and that there was no need to ask permission to travel through an international strait. The Canadian government issued a declaration in 1986 reaffirming Canadian rights to the waters. However, the United States refused to recognize the Canadian claim. In 1988 the governments of Canada and the U.S. signed an agreement, "Arctic Cooperation", that did not solve the sovereignty issues but stated that U.S. icebreakers would require permission from the Government of Canada to pass through. Relations With the United States from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty

In late 2005, it was alleged that U.S. nuclear submarines had traveled unannounced through Canadian Arctic waters, sparking outrage in Canada. In his first news conference after the Canadian federal election, 2006, then-Prime Minister-designate Stephen Harper contested an earlier statement made by the U.S. ambassador that Arctic waters were international, stating the Canadian government's intention to enforce its sovereignty there. The allegations arose after the United States Navy released photographs of the USS Charlotte (SSN-766) surfaced at the North Pole.Most of the activities involving American submarines (including their current and past positions and courses) are classified information, so therefore under that policy the U.S. Navy has declined to reveal which route(s) the Charlotte took to reach and return from the Pole.

On April 9, 2006, Canada's Canada Command declared that the Canadian Forces will no longer refer to the region as the Northwest Passage, but as the Canadian Internal Waters. The declaration came after the successful completion of Operation Nunalivut (Inuktitut for "the land is ours"), which was an expedition into the region by five military patrols.

In 2006 a report prepared by the staff of the Parliamentary Information and Research Service of Canada suggested that because of the September 11, 2001 attacks the United States might be less interested in pursuing the international waterways claim in the interests of having a more secure North American perimeter. This report was based on an earlier paper, The Northwest Passage Shipping Channel: Is Canada’s Sovereignty Really Floating Away? by Andrea Charron, given to the 2004 Canadian Defence and Foreign Affairs Institute Symposium. Later in 2006 former United States Ambassador to Canada, Paul Cellucci agreed with this position, however the current Ambassador, David Wilkins states that the Northwest Passage is in international waters. Dispute Over NW Passage Revived from the Washington Post ]

On July 9 2007 Prime Minister Harper announced the establishment of a deep water port in the far North. In the government press release the Prime Minister is quoted as saying, “Canada has a choice when it comes to defending our sovereignty over the Arctic. We either use it or lose it. And make no mistake, this Government intends to use it. Because Canada’s Arctic is central to our national identity as a northern nation. It is part of our history. And it represents the tremendous potential of our future."

On July 10, 2007 Rear Admiral Timothy McGee (USN) of the United States Navy, and Rear Admiral Brian Salerno of the United States Coast Guard announced that the United States would also be increasing its ability to patrol the Arctic.{{cite news], 2007| url=http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601082&sid=aK9JSBhBiJMg&refer=canada| title=U.S. Bolsters Arctic Presence to Aid Commercial Ships (Update1)| author=[Hugo Miller| accessdate=2007-7-10-->

Effects of climate change Around the time of the Viking Sagas and for at least two more centuries (a conservative interval from 1000–1200 AD that also happens to include the dates allotted to some of the larger Norse ships), prior to the Little Ice Age the climate was not only warmer, but the sea-level in the Arctic was also quite different from that of the present day. Between the Post-glacial rebound and global cooling, land levels of the land masses about the Northwest Passage have risen upwards of 20 m in the centuries after the Viking times.

In the summer of 2000, several ships took advantage of thinning summer ice cover on the Arctic Ocean to make the crossing. It is thought that global warming is likely to open the passage for increasing periods of time, making it attractive as a major shipping route. However the passage through the Arctic Ocean would require significant investment in escort vessels and staging ports. Therefore the Canadian commercial marine transport industry does not anticipate the route as a viable alternative to the Panama Canal even within the next 10 to 20 years. On September 14, 2007 the European Space Agency announced that ice loss had opened up the passage "for the first time since records began in 1978". According to the Arctic Climate Impact Assessment, the latter part of the 20th century and the start of the 21st had seen marked Arctic shrinkage. The extreme loss in 2007 rendered the passage "fully navigable". By which the ESA suggested the passage would be navigable "during reduced ice cover by multi-year ice pack" (namely sea ice surviving one or more summers) where previously any traverse of the route had to be undertaken during favourable seasonable climatic conditions or by specialist vessels or expeditions. The agency's report speculated that the conditions prevalent in 2007 had shown the passage may "open" sooner than expected. At least 3 boats successfully completed the journey in 2007. BBC News "Plain Sailing on the Northwest Passage"

See also

References Further reading

External links

The Northwest Passage is a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, along the northern coast of North America via the waterways amidst the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Oceans. Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary definition The Northwest Passage Thawed The various islands of the archipelago are separated from one another and the Canada mainland by a series of Arctic waterways collectively known as the Northwest Passages or Northwestern Passages. IHO Codes for Oceans & Seas, and Other Code Systems, including IHO 23-3rd: Limits of Oceans and Seas, Special Publication 23, 3rd ed. (1953), published by International Hydrographic Organization.

Sought by explorers for centuries as a possible trade route, it was first navigated by Roald Amundsen in 1903-6. The Arctic polar ice packs prevents regular ship transport throughout the year, but due to climate change, the pack ice is being reduced and may eventually make the waterways more navigable. This and the contested sovereignty claims over the waters may complicate future shipping through the region. The Government of Canada considers the Northwestern Passages part of Canadian Internal Waters, TP 14202 E Interpretation - Transport Canada ] but various countries maintain they are an United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea or transit passage, allowing free and unencumbered passage. The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty Naval Operations in an ice-free Arctic

Overview Between the end of the 15th century and the 20th century, Colonialism from Eurasia dispatched explorers in an attempt to discover a commercial sea route north and west around North America. The Northwest Passage represented a new route to the established trading nations of Asia. In 1493 to defuse trade disputes Pope Alexander VI split the discovered world in two between Spain and Portugal; thus France, Holland and England were left without a sea route to Asia, either via Africa or South America.Captain Cook by Vanessa Collingridge (Ebury Press) 2002 ISBN 0091888980The United Kingdom called the hypothetical route the Northwest Passage. The desire to establish such a route motivated much of the European exploration of both coasts of North America. When it became apparent that there was no route through the heart of the continent, attention turned to the possibility of a passage through northern waters. This was driven in some part by scientific naiveté, namely an early belief that seawater was incapable of freezing (as late as the mid 18th century, James Cook had reported, for example, that Antarctic icebergs had yielded fresh water, seemingly confirming the hypothesis), and that a route close to the North Pole must therefore exist. The belief that a route lay to the far north persisted for several centuries and led to a number of expeditions into the Arctic, including the attempt by Sir John Franklin in 1845. In 1906, Roald Amundsen first successfully completed a path from Greenland to Alaska in the Gjøa. Since that date, a number of ice-fortified ships have made the journey.

From west to east the Northwest Passage runs through the Bering Strait (separating Russia and Alaska), Chukchi Sea, Beaufort Sea and then through several waterways that go through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. There are five to seven different routes through the archipelago, including the McClure Strait, Dease Strait and the Prince of Wales Strait, but not all of them are suitable for larger ships. The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty The passage then goes through Baffin Bay and the Davis Strait into the Atlantic Ocean.

There has been speculation that with the advent of global warming the passage may become clear enough of ice to permit safe commercial Ship transport for at least part of the year. On August 21, 2007 the Northwest Passage became open to ships without the need of an icebreaker. According to Nalan Koc of the Norwegian Polar Institute this is the first time it has been clear since they began keeping records in 1972. North-West Passage is now plain sailing Satellites witness lowest Arctic ice coverage in history

From 1500 to 1850 Strait of Anián In 1539, Hernán Cortés commissioned Francisco de Ulloa to sail along the peninsula of Baja California peninsula on the Western coast of America. Ulloa concluded that the Gulf of California was the southernmost section of a strait supposedly linking the Pacific with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. His voyage perpetuated the notion of the Island of California and saw the beginning of a search for the Strait of Anián.

The strait probably took its name from Ania, a Chinese province mentioned in a 1559 edition of Marco Polo's book; it first appears on a map issued by Italy cartographer Giacomo Gastaldi about 1562. Five years later Bolognini Zaltieri issued a map showing a narrow and crooked Strait of Anian separating Asia from Americas. The strait grew in European imagination as an easy sea-lane linking Europe with the residence of the Great Khan in Cathay (northern China). It was originally placed at approximately the latitude of San Diego, California leading some who live in the region to call it "Anian" or "Aniane".

Voyages by John Cabot, Corte-Real, Jacques Cartier and Sir Humphrey Gilbert were motivated by its supposed existence, and cartographers and seamen tried to demonstrate its reality. Sir Francis Drake sought the western entrance in 1579. The Greek pilot Juan de Fuca claimed he had sailed the strait from the Pacific to the North Sea and back in 1592. The Spaniard Bartholomew de Fonte (who, some scholars have stated, was fictitious) claimed to have sailed from Hudson Bay to the Pacific via the strait in 1640.

Northern Atlantic The first recorded attempt to discover the Northwest passage was the east-west voyage of John Cabot in 1497, sent by Henry VII of England in search of a direct route to the Orient. The next of several British expeditions were launched in 1576 by Martin Frobisher, who took three trips west to what is now the Canadian Arctic in order to find the passage. Frobisher Bay, which he discovered, is named after him. As part of another hunt, in July 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who had written a treatise on the discovery of the passage and was a backer of Frobisher, claimed the territory of Newfoundland (island) for the English crown. On August 8, 1585 the English people explorer John Davis (English explorer) for the first time entered Cumberland Sound, Baffin Island.

The major rivers on the east coast were also explored in case they could lead to a transcontinental passage. Jacques Cartier's explorations of the Saint Lawrence River were initiated in hope of finding a way through the continent. Indeed, Cartier managed to convince himself that the St. Lawrence was the Passage; when he found the way blocked by rapids at what is now Montreal, he was so certain that these rapids were all that was keeping him from China (in French, la Chine), that he named the rapids for China. To this day, they are the Lachine Rapids. In 1609 Henry Hudson sailed up what is now called the Hudson River in search of the Passage; encouraged by the saltiness of the water, he reached present-day Albany before giving up. He later explored the Arctic and Hudson Bay.

Northern Pacific Although most Northwest Passage expeditions originated in Europe or on the east coast of North America and sought to traverse the Passage in the westbound direction, some progress was made in exploration of its western end as well. In 1728 Vitus Bering, a Danish Navy officer in Russian service, used the strait first discovered by Semyon Dezhnyov in 1648 but later accredited to and named after Bering (the Bering Strait), concluding North America and Russia were separate land masses. Later in 1741 with Lieutenant Alexei Chirikov he went in search of further lands beyond Siberia. Whilst separated, Chirikov discovered several of the Aleutian Islands while Bering charted the Alaskan region before the scurvy-ravaged ship wrecked off Kamchatka.

In 1762, the English trading ship Octavius (ship) reportedly hazarded the passage from the west, but became trapped in sea ice. In 1775, the whaler Herald found the Octavius adrift near Greenland with the bodies of her crew frozen below decks. Thus the Octavius may have earned the distinction of being the first Western sailing ship to make the passage, although the fact that it took 13 years and occurred after the crew was dead somewhat tarnishes this achievement. (The veracity of the Octavius story is questionable).

Cook and Vancouver In 1776 Captain James Cook was despatched by the Admiralty in England under orders driven by a 1745 Act which, when extended in 1775, promised a £20,000 prize for whoever discovered the passage. Initially the Admiralty had wanted Charles Clerke to lead the expedition, with Cook, in retirement following his exploits in the Pacific, acting as a consultant. However Cook had researched Bering's expeditions and the Admiralty ultimately placed their faith in the veteran explorer to lead with Clerke accompanying him.

After journeying through the Pacific, in another West-East attempt Cook began at Nootka Sound in April 1777 and headed North along the coastline, charting the lands and searching for the regions sailed by the Russians 40 years previously. The Admiralty's orders had commanded the expedition to ignore all inlets and rivers until they reached a latitude of 65° North. Cook, however, failed to make any progress in sighting a Northwestern Passage.

Various officers on the expedition including William Bligh, George Vancouver and John Gore thought the existence of a route was 'improbable'. Before reaching 65° N they found the coastline pushing them further south, but Gore convinced Cook to sail on into the Cook Inlet in the hope of finding the route. They continued to the limits of the Alaskan peninsula and the start of the thousand-mile chain of Aleutian Islands. Despite reaching 70° N they encountered nothing but icebergs. Ultimately they failed in the search, cursing the Russians for their "late pretended Discoveries" and the existence of the passage as nothing more than geographical fantasy.

In 1791-1795, the Vancouver Expedition (led by George Vancouver who had accompanied Cook previously) surveyed in detail all the passages from the British Columbia Coast and confirmed that there was no such passage south of the Bering Strait.{{cite web|url=http://www.mysticseaport.org/library/initiative/ImPage.cfm?PageNum=2&BibId=17506&ChapterId=3|title=Vancouver's discovery of Puget Sound|author=Meany, Edmond Stephen|accessdate=April 13|accessyear=2007|publisher=Mystic Seaport--> This conclusion was supported by the evidence of Alexander Mackenzie who explored the Arctic and Pacific oceans in 1793.

19th century In the first half of the 19th century, some parts of the actual Northwest Passage (north of the Bering Strait) were explored separately by a number of expeditions, including those by John Ross (Arctic explorer), William Edward Parry, and James Clark Ross; overland expeditions were also led by John Franklin, George Back, Peter Warren Dease, Thomas Simpson (explorer), and John Rae (explorer). In 1825 Frederick William Beechey explored the north coast of Alaska, discovering Point Barrow.

Sir Robert McClure was credited with the discovery of the real Northwest Passage in 1851 when he looked across McClure Strait from Banks Island and viewed Melville Island, Canada. However, this strait was not navigable to ships at that time, and the only usable route linking the entrances of Lancaster Strait and Dolphin and Union Strait was discovered by John Rae in 1854.

Franklin expedition In 1845, a well-equipped two-ship expedition led by Sir John Franklin sailed to the Canadian Arctic to chart the final unknown parts of the Northwest Passage. Confidence was high, as there was less than of unexplored Arctic mainland coast left. When the ships failed to return, a number of relief expeditions and search parties explored the Canadian Arctic, resulting in final charting of a possible passage. Traces of the expedition have been found, including notes that indicate that the ships became ice-locked in 1846 near King William Island, about half way through the passage, and were unable to extricate themselves. Franklin himself died in 1847 and the last of the party in 1848, after abandoning the ships and attempting to escape overland by sledge. While starvation and scurvy contributed to the deaths of the crew, another factor was significant. The expedition took 8,000 tins of food which were carelessly sealed with a lead-based solder. The lead appears to have contaminated the food, poisoning the crew. They would have become weak and disoriented — later stages of lead poisoning include insanity and death. In 1981 Dr. Owen Beattie, an anthropologist from the University of Alberta, examined remains from sites associated with the expedition. This led to further investigations, and the examination of tissue and bone from the Mummy bodies of three seamen, exhumed from the permafrost of Beechey Island. Laboratory tests revealed high concentrations of lead in all three. New evidence shows that cannibalism may also have been a last resort for some of the crew.

McClure expedition representing British frustration at the failure to conquer the passage.During the search for Franklin, Commander Robert McClure and his crew in HMS Investigator traversed the Northwest Passage from west to east in the years 1850 to 1854, partly by ship and partly by sledge. McClure started out from England in December of 1849, sailed the Atlantic Ocean south to Cape Horn and entered the Pacific Ocean. He sailed the Pacific north with a stop at Hawaii and then finally passed through the Bering Strait, turning east at that point and reaching Banks Island. McClure's ship was trapped in the ice for three winters near Banks Island, at the western end of Viscount Melville Sound. Finally McClure and his crew – who were by that time dying of starvation — were found by searchers who had travelled by sledge over the ice from a ship of Sir Edward Belcher's expedition, and returned with them to Belcher's ships, which had entered the sound from the east. On one of Belcher's ships, McClure and his crew returned to England in 1854, becoming the first people to circumnavigate the Americas, and to discover and transit the Northwest Passage, albeit by ship and by sledge over the ice. This was an astonishing feat for that day and age and McClure was knighted and promoted to Captain and both he and his crew shared £10,000 awarded them by the Parliament of the United Kingdom.

Explorations by John Rae The expeditions by Franklin and McClure were in the then-current tradition of British exploration: well-funded ship-borne expeditions using modern technology, and usually including Royal Navy personnel. By contrast, John Rae was an employee of the Hudson's Bay Company, which was the major driving force behind exploration of the Canadian North. They adopted a pragmatic approach and tended to be land-based. While Franklin and McClure attempted to explore the passage by sea, Rae explored by land, using dog sleds and employing techniques he learned from the native Inuit. The Franklin and McClure expeditions each employed hundreds of personnel and multiple ships, and ended in failure. John Rae's expeditions included less than ten people and succeeded. Rae was also the only explorer to traverse these lands without ever losing a man. In 1854, John Rae - Dictionary of Canadian Biography Online Rae returned with information about the outcome of the ill-fated Franklin expedition.

Amundsen expedition The Northwest Passage was not conquered by sea until 1906, when the Norway explorer Roald Amundsen, who had sailed just in time to escape creditors seeking to stop the expedition, completed a three-year voyage in the converted 47-ton herring Fishing Vessel Gjøa. At the end of this trip, he walked into the city of Eagle, Alaska, and sent a telegram announcing his success. Although his chosen east-west route, via the Rae Strait, contained young ice and thus was navigable (see John Rae (explorer)), some of the waterways were extremely shallow making the route commercially impractical.

Later expeditions The first traversal of the Northwest Passage via dog sled Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen, biography by Sam Alley. Minnesota State University. was accomplished by Greenlander Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen while on the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921-1924). Rasmussen, and two Kalaallit, traveled from the Atlantic to the Pacific over the course of 16 months via dog sled.

In 1940, Canadian RCMP officer Henry Larsen was the second to sail the passage, crossing west to east, from Vancouver, Canada to City of Halifax. More than once on this trip, it was touch and go as to whether the St. Roch a Royal Canadian Mounted Police "ice-fortified" schooner would survive the ravages of the sea ice. At one point, Larsen wondered "if we had come this far only to be crushed like a nut on a shoal and then buried by the ice." The ship and all but one of her crew survived the winter on Boothia Peninsula. Each of the men on the trip was awarded a medal by Canada's sovereign, George VI of the United Kingdom, in recognition of this notable feat of Arctic navigation.

Later in 1944, Larsen's return trip was far more swift than his first; the 28 months he took on his first trip was significantly reduced, setting the mark for having traversed it in a single season. The efficiency was due to the ship following a more northerly partially uncharted route, together with extensive ship upgrades.

On July 1, 1957, the United States Coast Guard Cutter (ship) USCGC Storis (WMEC-38) departed in company with U.S. Coast Guard cutters Bramble (WLB-392) and SPAR (WLB-403) to search for a deep draft channel through the Arctic Ocean and to collect Hydrography information. Upon her return to Greenland waters, the Storis became the first United States registered vessel to circumnavigate the North American continent. Shortly after her return in late 1957, she was reassigned to her new home port of Kodiak, Alaska.

In 1969, the Manhattan (ship) made the passage, accompanied by the Canadian icebreaker CCGS John A. MacDonald. The Manhattan was a Ice class supertanker sent to test the viability of the passage for the transport of oil. While the Manhattan succeeded, the route was deemed not cost effective and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System was built instead.

In June 1977 sailor Willy de Roos left Belgium to attempt crossing the Northwest Passage in his steel yacht Williwaw. He reached the Bering Strait in September and after a stopover in Victoria, British Columbia went on to round Cape Horn and sail back to Belgium, thus being the first sailor to circumnavigate the Americas entirely by ship. Willy de Roos' big journey at the CBC archives

David Scott Cowper set out in July 1986 from England in a 12.8m (42') lifeboat, the Mabel El Holland, and survived 3 Arctic winters in the Northwest Passage before reaching the Bering Straits in August 1989. He then continued around the world via the Cape of Good Hope to arrive back on 24 September 1990, becoming the first vessel to circumnavigate via the Northwest PassageCruising, London, Summer 1992, p35.

In 2001 September 1, Northabout, an aluminium sailboat with diesel engine Northabout, built and captained by Jarlath Cunnane, a retired construction manager, completed the Northwest passage east-to-westfrom Ireland to the Bering Strait. The voyage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was completed in a very fast time of 24 days — from sailing into Lancaster Sound off Baffin Bay on 2001 August 7 to reaching the Bering Strait, Alaska on September 1. The Northabout then cruised in Canada for two years before it returned to Ireland in 2005 via the Northeast Passage thereby completing the first east-to-west circumnavigation of the pole by a single sailboat. The Northeast Passage return along the coast of Russia was slower, starting in 2004, with an ice stop/winter over in Khatanga (village), Siberia — hence the return to Ireland via the Norway coast in October 2005. On January 18, 2006, The Cruising Club of America awarded Jarlath Cunnane their Blue Water Medal, an award for "meritorious seamanship and adventure upon the sea displayed by amateur sailors of all nationalities."

On May 19 2007, French sailor Sébastien Roubinet and one other crew member left Anchorage, Alaska in Babouche, a ice catamaran designed to sail on water and slide over ice. The goal was to navigate west to east through the Northwest Passage by sail only. Following a journey of more than , Roubinet reached Greenland on September 9 2007, thereby completing the first Northwest Passage voyage made without engine in one season.

International waters dispute The Canadian government claims that some of the waters of the Northwest Passage, particularly those in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, are internal to Canada, giving Canada the right to bar transit through these waters. Most maritime nations,Nathan VanderKlippe. Northwest Passage gets political name change, CanWest News Services, Ottawa Citizen, April 9, 2006. including the United States and the nations of the European Union, Climate Change and Canadian Sovereignty in the Northwest Passage consider them to be an United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, where foreign vessels have the right of "transit passage". The Northwest Passage Thawed In such a régime, Canada would have the right to enact fishing and environmental regulation, and fiscal and smuggling laws, as well as laws intended for the safety of shipping, but not the right to close the passage. UNCLOS part III, STRAITS USED FOR INTERNATIONAL NAVIGATION The Northwest Passage and Climate Change from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty In 1985, the U.S. icebreaker USCGC Polar Sea (WAGB-11) passed through, and the U.S. government made a point of not asking permission from Canada. They claimed that this was simply a cost-effective way to get the ship from Greenland to Alaska and that there was no need to ask permission to travel through an international strait. The Canadian government issued a declaration in 1986 reaffirming Canadian rights to the waters. However, the United States refused to recognize the Canadian claim. In 1988 the governments of Canada and the U.S. signed an agreement, "Arctic Cooperation", that did not solve the sovereignty issues but stated that U.S. icebreakers would require permission from the Government of Canada to pass through. Relations With the United States from the Library of Parliament - Canadian Arctic Sovereignty

In late 2005, it was alleged that U.S. nuclear submarines had traveled unannounced through Canadian Arctic waters, sparking outrage in Canada. In his first news conference after the Canadian federal election, 2006, then-Prime Minister-designate Stephen Harper contested an earlier statement made by the U.S. ambassador that Arctic waters were international, stating the Canadian government's intention to enforce its sovereignty there. The allegations arose after the United States Navy released photographs of the USS Charlotte (SSN-766) surfaced at the North Pole.Most of the activities involving American submarines (including their current and past positions and courses) are classified information, so therefore under that policy the U.S. Navy has declined to reveal which route(s) the Charlotte took to reach and return from the Pole.

On April 9, 2006, Canada's Canada Command declared that the Canadian Forces will no longer refer to the region as the Northwest Passage, but as the Canadian Internal Waters. The declaration came after the successful completion of Operation Nunalivut (Inuktitut for "the land is ours"), which was an expedition into the region by five military patrols.

In 2006 a report prepared by the staff of the Parliamentary Information and Research Service of Canada suggested that because of the September 11, 2001 attacks the United States might be less interested in pursuing the international waterways claim in the interests of having a more secure North American perimeter. This report was based on an earlier paper, The Northwest Passage Shipping Channel: Is Canada’s Sovereignty Really Floating Away? by Andrea Charron, given to the 2004 Canadian Defence and Foreign Affairs Institute Symposium. Later in 2006 former United States Ambassador to Canada, Paul Cellucci agreed with this position, however the current Ambassador, David Wilkins states that the Northwest Passage is in international waters. Dispute Over NW Passage Revived from the Washington Post ]

On July 9 2007 Prime Minister Harper announced the establishment of a deep water port in the far North. In the government press release the Prime Minister is quoted as saying, “Canada has a choice when it comes to defending our sovereignty over the Arctic. We either use it or lose it. And make no mistake, this Government intends to use it. Because Canada’s Arctic is central to our national identity as a northern nation. It is part of our history. And it represents the tremendous potential of our future."

On July 10, 2007 Rear Admiral Timothy McGee (USN) of the United States Navy, and Rear Admiral Brian Salerno of the United States Coast Guard announced that the United States would also be increasing its ability to patrol the Arctic.{{cite news], 2007| url=http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601082&sid=aK9JSBhBiJMg&refer=canada| title=U.S. Bolsters Arctic Presence to Aid Commercial Ships (Update1)| author=[Hugo Miller| accessdate=2007-7-10-->

Effects of climate change Around the time of the Viking Sagas and for at least two more centuries (a conservative interval from 1000–1200 AD that also happens to include the dates allotted to some of the larger Norse ships), prior to the Little Ice Age the climate was not only warmer, but the sea-level in the Arctic was also quite different from that of the present day. Between the Post-glacial rebound and global cooling, land levels of the land masses about the Northwest Passage have risen upwards of 20 m in the centuries after the Viking times.

In the summer of 2000, several ships took advantage of thinning summer ice cover on the Arctic Ocean to make the crossing. It is thought that global warming is likely to open the passage for increasing periods of time, making it attractive as a major shipping route. However the passage through the Arctic Ocean would require significant investment in escort vessels and staging ports. Therefore the Canadian commercial marine transport industry does not anticipate the route as a viable alternative to the Panama Canal even within the next 10 to 20 years. On September 14, 2007 the European Space Agency announced that ice loss had opened up the passage "for the first time since records began in 1978". According to the Arctic Climate Impact Assessment, the latter part of the 20th century and the start of the 21st had seen marked Arctic shrinkage. The extreme loss in 2007 rendered the passage "fully navigable". By which the ESA suggested the passage would be navigable "during reduced ice cover by multi-year ice pack" (namely sea ice surviving one or more summers) where previously any traverse of the route had to be undertaken during favourable seasonable climatic conditions or by specialist vessels or expeditions. The agency's report speculated that the conditions prevalent in 2007 had shown the passage may "open" sooner than expected. At least 3 boats successfully completed the journey in 2007. BBC News "Plain Sailing on the Northwest Passage"

See also

References Further reading

External links



BBC NEWS | Americas | Plain sailing on the Northwest Passage
A fabled Arctic shipping route from the Atlantic to Pacific is now open due to ice loss, Europe's space agency says.

BBC NEWS | World | Americas | Warming 'opens Northwest Passage'
A fabled Arctic shipping route from the Atlantic to Pacific is now open due to ice loss, Europe's space agency says.

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